Tuesday, April 24, 2007

The Rest of New Zealand: Kepler Track to Picton

So, after skydiving in Te Anau, Jana and I prepared for the Kepler Track. It was a 2 night, three day beautiful 40 mile trek through the mountains in the fjordlands. We had a 1000 meter ascent the first day (ouch) and 400 the next day. We stayed in what are called "huts"with about 50 other people in basic bunks. The second day was actually sort of scary. We had to walk across the tops of the mountain ridges and the wind was so intense, we had to crouch down quite a bit to avoid being knocked off our feet and down the mountain. One family with younger kids had to turn back. The $3 poncho I bought in case of rain did nada against the rain that day and it was very cold with the wind. I was exceptionally happy when we reached the hut that night. The last day was beautiful as we walked through the valley. That night I met a guy in the campsite kitchen that read my palm. Very entertaining indeed... Looks like I have a few more years till I settle down!

Queenstown was the next stop. The drive there took us along a road overlooking the lake there and The Remarkables mountain range that disappear into the water. I think the name The Remarkables is the most fitting name for these mountains. They were truly remarkable...
Queenstown was a very touristy city, packed with tourist buses and a scene aimed for really young, party-hard tourists that I didn't really care for. I did meet a couple cool New Yorkers one night playing pool though. Other than that, the surrounding scenery is abut the only thing that really appealed to me. On our last night in QT, Jana and I parked the car for the night too close to the city and I woke up to a man handing me a paper through the car window, telling us we had 5 minutes to leave or we'd have a $4oo fine. Yikes! As we drove off, we counted numerous other vans and cars pulling out of their hiding spots after having been discovered and threatened by the same man. It really was comical at the time and boy, we all must have been a cite a for sore eyes to this guy. From there, we drove to nearby towns Arrowtown and Glenorchy. Both places were areas where a lot of the Lord of the Rings was filmed. It was Autumn and all the trees were changing colors, especially the beech trees which turned a brilliant yellow. Jana and I hiked through a beech forest. It was lovely and everything is covered in moss, but there was one eerie aspect- you couldn't hear one bird chirping. The possums and rats have killed off the majority of chicks and eaten bird eggs, that there are hardly any birds left in the south of the south island. It's amazing how much the lack of bird songs can change your perspective of a place. Arrowtown was a charming, quaint, old gold mining town scattered with old-English looking cottages.

Next stop, Wanaka. Supposedly, Shania Twain lives there. Nice town on the edge of an even nicer lake. Not a huge amount to do there if it's not ski season. We left Wanaka after 2 days and headed up the west coast to Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. We did a guided glacier walk at Fox Glacier which was really great. There was a search and rescue team out there practicing drill too which was fascinating. Both glaciers were massive and the cliffs they carved in the surrounding mountains thousands of years ago, impressive.

At this point, I started to notice that I didn't have that much time left before I flew to Oz, so we got a move on up the west coast, stopping only at Pancake Rocks on the way north. Pancake Rocks are a geological beauty. They are a grouping of rocks that have distinct layers (resembling a stack of pancakes, hence the name) formed a long, long time ago. When it is high tide, the water roars through the blowholes and explodes out of the rock for a spectacular show.
Next stop, Golden Bay. The north of the south island is completely different from the south. Yes, it's still mountainous, but instead of vast lakes and stunning fjords, there are vineyards, orchards with fruit falling off the trees and picturesque rural scenery that I fell in love with. Golden Bay was the gem of the north for me. I did a day hike with Jana through Abel Tasman Nat. Park. At the end of our trek, we were let out onto a gorgeous, deserted cove. I noticed thousands of small mussels growing on the rocks on the beach. As I looked closer, I saw that not only were there small mussels, but also huge ones too. So I began to put at a few to see if they would come off the rocks; they did indeed and after stuffing Jana's scarf with about 2 dozen green lipped mussels, we headed back towards civilization. That night, after searching for a hostel that would let us use their kitchen, we found one. That night, we had the best dinner yet: Mussels, wine, bread and cheese. I think it tasted so good because of the mussel experience on the beach, not just the flavor. We found the best 'home' on Golden Bay. As we got into "bed" aka our sleeping bags in the car, we had the best view of the stars so far on this trip. As we woke up, we woke up to one of the best sunrises on this trip.
Next, we drove back down the Golden Bay coast to the city of Nelson and then Picton. In Picton, we joined the mail-route into the Marlborough Sounds. This boat we went on goes out 3 days a week to deliver supplies and mail to those people how live in the isolated sounds. It was a great experience to see how some of these people live and just how far away they are from, well, anything. Most families would pull up to the pier in a quad, pile their goods in it and head out. Amazing and inspiring how some of there people choose to live their lives. Jana and I also visited a couple vineyards in Blenhiem, south of Picton which was great- how could it not be with free tastings of top-notch wine? I had to say goodbye to Jana in Picton as I had to head south, back to Christchurch to fly out to Melbourne, Australia a couple days later. It was sad to leave her after all the experiences we had together in the past month, living in a tiny car together and basicly spending every waking moment together. I will ever be thankful I had that experience.

Nothing terribly eventful happened between Picton and Christchurch on the bus. I am now in Melbourne, Australia where I am staying with a friend I met in Laos and then travelled with in Vietnam and Cambodia- Chris, the Scotsman. He is living and working here in Melbourne. Yesterday, he and I went out with a girl named Tuuli that we met in Southeast Asia. She is from here and took us to a few great spots in the 'bush' and I spotted my first koala and then we saw a few kangaroos as well. Seeing koalas and kangaroos, a man playing the didgeridoo on the city streets for spare change and being given vegemite with my crackers after donating blood made me think: Ok, I'm in Australia!

G'day!

Thursday, April 12, 2007

God's Country... New Zealand: Timaru to Milford Sound, South Island.

So, where did I leave off? First of all, I would just like to say New Zealand is everything I expected it to be. The people are really friendly and welcoming and the country has the most stunning scenery I have ever seen. There is something that will make you say Wow! around each turn in the road and the topography changes about a quick as the weather. For the sake of time (and energy) I will list where we have been and the highlights of that area, but before I start, I will tell you a wee bit (Kiwis use 'wee' all the time because of Scottish influences) about my new travel companion, Jana, and where we have been staying. Jana is a 25 year old budding artist with great talent from Berlin. She bought a 1994, two-door hatchback, red Opal which has been home to us for almost 3 weeks now. It has no radio so as our entertainment, we honk at hundreds of sheep along the side of the road and watch them look up and take-off running in the other direction (it may not sound that funny, but trust me, it really is!). At night, we either A) recline the seats in the Opal as far as we can and get in our sleeping bags, B) camp (weather depending) or C) crash at people's houses. Although, A) seems to be the most common. We typically start looking for our "home" or spot to park the car for the night before it gets dark. It usually is an alcove on the side of a highway because if you want to stay at a campsite you have to pay quite a bit and we refuse to do that. Most people who travel NZ buy a van or car and do what we are doing. You can only imagine what the past couple weeks have been like! Btw, I take pictures every day of where on the road we have slept that night so that would be why you see a lot of pictures of Jana's car!
Ok, now for where we've been!
First stop-
Omaru, a small, quaint town on the coast. It was full of garden shops, fish and chips take-aways (Kiwis love fried food), camping gear shops and cafes. We visited a yellow-eyed penguin colony, one of the rarest penguins in the world. We camped there that night next to a herd of sheep... Literally, right next to them. A fence separated us but they were very close and sounded more like pigs with their snorting!
Next stop-
Dunedin, an appealing student town with a heavy Scottish influence. Also, it is home to the world's steepest street and it was indeed very steep! It made the Guinness Book of World Records. Jana refused to drive up it. Also part of Dunedin is the Ortago Peninsula which launches off the tip of town and at the end of the forever snaking road, you can view Albatrosses but we didn't due to the fog:(
Next-
The Catlins, this is an area of the southwest coast of the south island that took us about 3/4 days to get through. The weather is as rough as the coastline, but spectacular nonetheless.
- Lots of seals and sea lions on the coast and you can get really close if you are quite enough, but they smell so bad that you really don't want to!
- Nugget Point- a lighthouse on the coast with a spattering of rocks jutting out of the water (thus, nuggets) and the sunset there was gorgeous. Also, randomly saw a guy there that I had met in South Africa.
- Tramped (hiked in Kiwi language) through a temperate rain forest (all over the Southland) which let out to the beach- really nice hike.
- Curio Bay- a bay covered in petrified tree stumps and logs. - Slope Point- the most southern point in NZ- wicked winds from the Artic and rain so didn't stay longer than we had to for a quick pic.
- Cathedral Caves- caves with cathedral ceilings on the beach that can only be accessed at low-tide.
- Lots of waterfalls and blowholes too...
Next stop-
Riverton, a small, sleepy seaside town with greasy, HUGE fried NZ mussels and oysters and a packed car full of French-Canadians that Jana and I camped with that night.
Next stop-
Fjordland!
Went to Lake Manapouri (second(?) deepest lake in NZ- some 440 meters deep at the middle)where we decided at the last minute to do an overnight cruise of Doubtful Sound. The Fjordland has many sounds and Doubtful is near the bottom, away from the more touristy Milford Sound. Strangely enough, I met someone on the cruise that knew someone I knew from England. Small world again! The cruise was amazing, the scenery dramatic, the Tasman Sea at sunset brilliant and the dolphins keeping us company was perfect.
Next- Milford Sound. Jana, Alistair (who was friends with that someone I know) and I headed north to Milford, just for the ride itself and it was the best drive I have seen so far in NZ. We stopped along the way at the Mirror Lakes that reflect the mountains perfectly. That night we all had wine and a good, warm dinner (anything warm is better than the bread/crackers/cheese/Vegemite/etc dinners we have!) We camped there and woke up to the 'Dawn Chorus' of the bell birds and Alistair left in the morning. Jana and I headed back down south to Queenstown (the Remarkables Mountain Range there is truly remarkable!) and Glenorchy where some of the Lord of the Rings was filmed. Then we headed to Te Anau where we booked a tramp through the fjordlands on the Kepler Track, one of NZ's "Great Hikes". It's a three day, two night hike through the Southern Alps of the fjordlands. The story of the trek will have to wait till next time though because I have to stop here for two reasons: A) I only have pictures uploaded to this point and B) I don't have time to write about all the rest! But before I go though, I will tell you we went skydiving over the Fjordlands- omg... 12,000 ft/4000 meters with a 48 second free fall. I have a DVD of it so if you're keen, I can show you when I get home.

One word: Whoa!


















Me after the jump with my instructor:)