Saturday, September 30, 2006

Goa, India

I arrived in Goa today and it truely is like what you see on the Discovery Channel or in National Geographic. I hopped on the back of a scooter to come to this internet cafe and it is like playing chicken constantly on the road- you beep to let the buses (and million other scooters you are pracically touching) know you are right next to them. Traffic circles? Forget it. I just closed my eyes... In the center of Mhapsa, lining block after block are hundreds of parked scooters and people everywhere. There are men sitting around with these massive piles of bright orange marigold flowers that they are stringing into long chains to sell (like in monsoon wedding) and there is so much to see on every corner/square inch, it is almost overwhelming. Goa is lush because monsoon season is coming to an end and forests of palm trees everywhere. Goa is divided into (I think) four regions and I am staying in a part of Goa called Mhapsa. The closest beach is probably 20-30 minute car ride. I met one other volunteer- Allison from England and two more come Monday. The place we are staying is the top floor (2 bedrooms/baths) of a house (a really nice, super devote catholic family lives below/with us). The house is located directly across the street from The Kathleen House (the children's home ages 1.5-6) and Rainbow House where the girls (7-?) live. The boys homes are up a hill and I will see and meet all the children on Monday. I can't wait. There are monkeys outside my bedroom window that run when I whistle at them:)
Anyways, it doesn't look like I will be emailing that often in the next 2 months because of the fact that I have to ride into town each time to use it, but I will do my best.
Smooches!

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Hakuna Matata

Hello again!
Sarfari in Kruger National Park in South Africa was amazing. My group consisted of an English mom, her daughter, two aussie girls, one of which I might stay with when I get there in March, a Japanese man named Bob from Idaho... I know. Strange. Anyways, the guide was the toughest "woman" I have ever met. She fought in the South African army, was a body guard for Bush on a visit here, killed a guy, you name it- she did it. We saw about every animal except the leopard and lions we saw from far away. We camped two nights and stayed at a "cultural" village which catered to tourists and I didn't like it- other than playing soccer with the local kids and watching them perform their tribal dances- that was nice. I had two up-close and personal encounters with Africa's finest insects- Once, when I woke up in my tent in the middle of the night to the sound of scratching only to find a really large, hairy spider above me and then again in the car when a dung beetle flew in the front window, richocheted off my head and hit the back window. Good times:)

After the safari, I went back to Pretoria outside of Jo'burg and went on a small tour to the apartheid museum in Jo'burg. It was really interesting and to see what actually happened here- how much violence there was, explained a lot and I am really glad I went. After the museum, I went into Soweto, where everything happened and even into Kliptown. Won't get into where that is or my dad will have my head. I saw Winnie Mendela's house, Desmond Tutu's too. Winnie did some pretty atrocious things during the uprisings including supporting the "necklace". This is when you took a person, put a huge tire full of petrol inside it and light you on fire as an example to informers. There is also the largest hospital in the world in Jo'burg but you don't want to have your baby there for one good reason: people steal them for two reasons: using them for voodoo medical and raping a virgin is thought to cure AIDS by many people here...
A couple more fun facts about Johannesburg:
- You can get an AK47 for 200 Rand- that's under $30.
- You can ask a taxi driver for one and you will have one within 20 minutes.
- Locals stand on the side of the road using various hands signals to bus (they cram up to 15 people in these meant for 8) driver to tell them where they want to go. Pretending you're hand is a gun means you want to go to Jo'burg.
- A policeman in England only pulls his gun with the distinct intend on shooting someone once in 6 years, in NYC once in 6 months, in Jo'burg once in 6 days...
I could go on and on about stories and things that I've learned, but I would be here all day.

Ok, so now I am staring out at the whitest sand and the clearest green water I have ever seen in Zanzibar Island, Tanzania, in the north (Nungi and Kendwa). I'm met more Brits and loads of French that I have been spending time with. There are also tons of volunteers here on a weeks vacation from Kenya or Tanzania. Last night a group of us went night fishing. The rods we used were nothing bigger then a foot and it had string around it with the weight and hook at the end. Unfortunately, no once caught a damn thing, but being on that boat and looking at the stars, which btw are INCREDIBLE in Africa, was really nice.
The poverty in Zanzibar was a definitely culture shock and I am glad I was exposed to it before I leave for India in a couple days- ease my way in. If I had to guess, I would say the island is 90% Muslim and Ramadan started the day I got here. I was fascinating driving by these shacks and huts made of mud and thatch at dusk and seeing large family's sitting on the floor in front of their homes eating together. The people of Zanzibar are very friendly and are constantly saying "jambo" which means hello or "hakuna matata" which I think if you've seen the lion King, you know what that means.

If I ever want to get to the beach, I better go try to download pictures and stop writing.

Monday, September 18, 2006

The Garden Route

Let's see... where did I leave off? The wine tour I took was well worth it- had a great time and tried lots of South African vino. The next day, I ended up catching a ride to the Cape of Good Hope with a really great Israeli couple, Maya and Lior, who had rented a car and were traveling through Africa on their honeymoon. On the way, we passed by an ostrich farm and got out of the car to harass the big birds. If you make a fist and move it close to their faces, they try to nip at you but they've got no teeth and so it doesn't really hurt. We also stopped at Boler Beach where penguins abound. Along the way, we saw whales, although a good picture was hard to take. Then, we arrived at Cape Point and view from the top was amazing. Along the beach, there were rock hyraxes, which look like groundhogs (sort of) but believe it or not, they are the closest relative to the elephant. There were also ostriches grazing on the the dunes- pretty cool.

The next morning, I left for Wilderness. It's a tiny place with nothing but hiking to do, but the hostel had the best view of the beach. I went for a hike to a place called "The Map of Africa" and on the way, I passed by a Township where some of the children come out to the road to wave and say hello. The actual 'Map of Africa' is basicly when you look out into this valley, from your vantage point, you look down on this large peice of land that is carved out by a river and it's just like looking at the continent of Africa (standing on the southernmost tip looking north).

I left the next day for Knysna where I ran into Ally (Scottish), Helen (German) and Nicki (British) who I had met on the Baz Bus (the main transport for backpackers although so many people rent cars and offer rides that I wish I never bought the ticket among other reasons such as crappy service- but I digress!). I also met two British guys named Tom and Mark who convinced me that I should leep off the biggest bridge in Africa, from the highest bungee jump in the world, Bloukrans. It's amazing what a couple beers can make that sound like a good idea. So the next morning I set off with them and did the stupidest/bravest thing I think I have ever done. One of the hardest parts was walking to the center of the bridge where you actually jump from. You walk under the bridge on a narrow, metal grate bridge and if you look down, you can see all the way down. Needless to say, I never looked down and walked at a snails pace the whole way. I was fourth to jump and the waiting was HORRIBLE. Especially as you watch the otherthree jump before you. So, it was finally my turn and I did what any rational person would do- I prayed harder then I ever have and jumped. The height of the jump is 216 meters and you freefall for 4-5 seconds. The first couple seconds are a bit of a blur, but as you recoil and fall again, you are free falling for another 3-4 seconds (the second recoil is the second highest bungee distance in the world). Anyways, it was actually amazing once you realized you are still alive and I'm glad I did it, although I don't think I will be doing it again!

After the bungee experience, I went with Mark and Tom and a British couple, who had also jumped, to Jeffery's Bay- a really popular surfers beach where there are waves called super tubes where international surfing competitions are held annually. The hostel we stayed at was in the beach and was very laid back. The next night, Ally, Nicki and Helen showed up and that was a lot of fun being with the girls. I left J Bay and am now outside of Jo'burg in a town called Pretoria. Tomorrow morning, I get picked up by Bundu Safari company to do my 4 day safari. I can't wait! When I get back here on the 22nd, I leave the next morning for Zanzibar in Tanzania fir 5 days and then I am off to India.

South Africa has been a great experince and I wish I had more time here. There is so much to see, experience and learn about (including the jargon and understanding the acsents!). The history and baggage that comes with the country makes it all the more interesting.

Here's some south african vocab for you:
When something goes wrong you say- shame!
Instead of saying "you're welcome" it's: pleasure (plez-shaw)
Hey man= Hey bru' (brew)
BBQ- Braii (bray)

Ok, till next time!

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Cape Town continued...




Well, I am still in beautiful Cape Town and have had some great experiences thus far (and one not so nice-> keep reading). The weather is truely bizarre here. One minute it will be warm and the next, the wind will start whipping and it will turn cold in a matter of seconds. Sometimes there are warm winds called "bergs" that are really nice. The wine tour was amazing- gorgeous countryside and I learned (drank) a lot about South African wine. I have met a lot of really cool people from everywhere, but particularly a few from Denmark, Holland, Australia and the States. One of them acutually had a friend here in CT that was having a BBQ, or a "bray" as they call it and we all went to that. I have befriended the staff here at the hostel- great people. So for the most part, the people I have met have been great. Unfortunatly though, I did have first-hand experience with "reverse" racism. It wasn't a huge deal, but it wasn't pleasant, just a lot of name calling for no particular reason. It defiantly opened my eyes to how divided South Africa still is and how much anamosity still exists due to the color of your skin. But, never fear! I didn't let that dampen my spirits and the next day I climbed table Mountain with a group of people from the hostel. It was an intense hike but the view from the top was unbelievable. We all thought the top would be as flat as it looked from the ground, but in fact, it was awesome- really rugged with boulders, spotted with pools of water and really interesting vegetation.

Yesterday, I met up with Ingrid, who lives in Cape Town. I walked part of the Camino in Spain with her and have been keeping in touch over the years. She with took me on a tour by car around the Cape region. The roads go right along the cliffs and look down on the bays and it is just stunning. Her husband spotted a few Southern Right whales down below so we pulled over to get a better look. There were tons of them! It's mating season and you could see them swimming circularly around each other and then coming up for air. Today I went to the largest flea market around and there were lots of performers, including small children performing traditional dances. Tomorrow, I head to the Cape of Good Hope and then Tuesday I leave Cape Town for Wilderness which is on the Garden Route.
More later!
Cheers!

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Cape Town

So, after a grueling 19/20 hours through Senegal and Johannesberg, I fianlly made my final destination in Cape Town. On the flight to Jo'burg, I sat next to a guy named Collin from Michigan State. He is doing pro-bono law stuff here for reguees and as it turns out, we are staying at the same hostel. When our driver got us at the airport, he showed us the Township, which is basicly the largest shantytown I have ever seen... We are talking 10-15 km of tin/plastic/whateveryoucanfindtobiuldahouse shantytowns- no running water and 6-8 people living in a shack. It's quite an eye-opening experience just to see it. He said that the SA Gov is trying to quickly turn the Township into flats and apartments because the Olympics are supposedly coming to Cape Town in 2010; It's pretty messed up that that is why they are changing things... Crime is out of control in some parts and the worse crimes are done to children which I won't even get into. Cape Town itself is beautiful, at least what I have seen today. Table Mountain looms above the city centre and it is incredible. The pepole at the hostel are great and tomorrow, I go on a wine tour to Stenallbosch, which is in the wine country- comparable to Napa from what I hear. I will hopefully have pictures for you in a day or two.
Ok, I have been awake for I can't even tell you for how long- TOO LONG. So I'm going to bed. More stories to come when I am coherent.