Kashmir, The Himalayas and Rajasthan

Well, I am no longer in India and I have mixed emotions about it. Saying goodbye to the kids I had gotten to know so well and care a lot about over the last 2 months was very difficult (to put it plainly). After leaving Goa, I decided to head north to Delhi and then take a tour of Kashmir and Rajastan. Flying over the Himalayas on the way to Srinagar was amazing. Srinagar has had it's share of trouble to say the least. In 1999, Clinton declared it the 'most dangerous place in the world'... probably should have done a little research before I went. But everything was fine but it certainly felt more like the Middle East than India. It was really cold in Kashmir but very tranquil on Lake Dal, where I stayed on a houseboat. In fact, I stayed in the same room that Mick Jagger and Jerry hall stayed in once upon a time. There was no heat in Kashmir, so I had to sleep with hot water bottles in the bed (they call them "babies") and use a hand-held basket with a terra cotta pot in it with coals. They call that "a winter husband" and you put it under your poncho to keep warm. I went trekking in the Himalayas for a couple days which was wonderful. Had a bit of altitude sickness because I think we were 9,200 meters (27,000 ft) up, but it wasn't too bad. Just fatigue and a massive headache.

After Kashmir, I went on a tour of Rajasthan to see the Taj, Pushkar, Jaipur and a place for a tiger safari (didn't see one). Pushkar was the coolest little town and we went on a camel safari. I was travelling with a couple ozzies, a German girl and a Danish girl. Lots of stories from that trip, but it'll have to wait till I get home because I would be writing for hours!

After Rajasthan, I went back to Delhi and caught an overnight train to Mumbai/Bombay. Luckily, I met a very nice guy on the train named Keshav and he helped me find a room that night. He and his friends took me out that night to Marine Dr and Chowpatty beach. We rode the local trains that are insane. There are no doors and there are at least 10 people hanging out the opening while only holding on to a metal pole. it's no wonder that 4-5 people die each day in Mumbai on the trains. The poverty in Mumbai was awful. I thought other places were bad, but this was the worst. People/families put down blankets (if they have one) and line the sidewalks at night to sleep. It was shocking to see how many were homeless and jobless.

I flew to Bangkok on the 10th of December and am now in Bangkok. I am still adjusting I think, after coming from India. It's a lot better here as far as easy travel. There are tons of backpackers and I am staying near the infamous Khao San Rd. I would say 50% of the Thai 'women' here are actually 'lady-boys'. I met a couple Ozzies who are great, Nick and Linda. We took the sky train around the city last night which was a good way to see it. We also went to the Grand Palace and surrounding area which was very elaborate and beautiful. Tomorrow, we go to Ko Samet island for a couple days and then straight back here to catch the bus to Chiang Mai, where I will be spending Christmas with Linda and whoever else we meet.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My Indian Experience and Top Ten List

For all of you who wanted to send things for the kids, below is the address where to send things and a list of items the kids need/want at the night shelter where I am working:
Address:
Sharon Vickery c/o Gracie & Victor Fernades House No 677 Pintos Vaddo, opposite Bosio Hospital, Candolim, Bardez, Goa, India
List:
Anything educational but nothing past a 3rd or 4th grade level ability. Learning DVDs- really basic though (for toddlers up to 4/5 years old) for teaching things like numbers, letters/sounds, colors, small words because most don't speak any English or very little; Books for the same ability level; Any type of learning games (Leap Frog, etc); They LOVE to dance so cheesy American dance cds would go a LONG way:) Simple games, jump ropes, legos are popular, balloons, personal size chalkboards, beads and thread etc... email me with any questions and thanks!! You have no idea how far things go here and how much it means to the kids. Btw, here is the web address of the volunteer organization I work for: http://www.childrescue.net/ If you are looking for a really special gift to give this Xmas, look under "our projects" specifically "loan a goat" or "wells for life" or you could always sponsor a child. I can tell you more about any of these things if you have questions too:) Plus, you can read about all the homes and shelters I have been talking about:)

Now for an update on what's been happening over here...

- The performance the children had been practicing daily for with the Italians, finally happened in the beach town of Calangute the other weekend. The turn out was good and hopefully we raised both money and awareness for El Shaddai. Most of all, the kids were so proud of themselves at the end- I felt like a proud mother!
- My job here has completely changed. I no longer work in the school. Instead, I have been assigned to teaching at the night shelter in Panjim (the capital of Goa). When the director, Sharon, heard i was a teacher, she took me out of the school for the children living in the homes and has placed me full-time at Asha Deep night shelter in Panjim. My job here has included organizing all the learning material they had into 4 ability levels, teaching the one 'teacher' they had how to teach between 25-60 children (mission impossible) and develop a teacher's manual for all the night shelters to use. This includes how to teach a lesson, discipline techniques and everything in between. It has been challenging but rewarded as I am doing something that will hopefully last. I absolutely love coming everyday to see the children at Asha Deep. These kids are in such need of affection that all they want to do is hug you and not let go. About 8 of them actually live there and have no families. We teach them English and Math in the mornings. Many children just stop in at 1pm for lunch and then go back out to beg and/or "rag pick" which is when they carry a huge bag around, picking up plastic bottles, cardboard or whatever they can out of trash bins or from the ground to turn in for a few rupees. Many of them also are washed when they come in because they are so filthy. Some of those who live with their families in the slums are school-going children that go to crappy government run schools in the morning till 1pm and then they too come for lunch and stay for the afternoon. Afternoons tend to be a bit crazy as Asha Deep only consists of two tiny rooms and the rooftop. The kids all call me "Di Di" which means "Sister" or "Auntie" depending on your age- it's whichever makes you more comfortable... I prefer to think that they call me "sister":) There are only two real downfalls to working at Asha Deep: First, the children only speak Hindi so it is incredibly hard to teach them, and second is the trip there and back each day. To get to Panjim from where I live takes 2 hours each way. It's a 45 minute walk to the bus station in Mapsa from where I stay in Assagao, then I have to change buses in Panjim and walk to the shelter. The buses are an experience here- you are packed in like sardines to the point where people are literally hanging out the door. I leave the house by 7:30/8am so by the time I get home around 6pm, I am beat. I usually walk to either Shekkinah House (boys 8-10), Kathleen House (the little ones) or Rainbow House (the bigger girls) for dinner and then it's lights out! But honestly it's all worth it in the end because I love being with those kids at Asha Deep and look forward to seeing them each morning.
- Dawali holidays were a little while ago. This is the Hindu New Year. I t is a huge celebration and neighborhoods compete with each other to see h\who make the biggest and best demon made of hay, wood, newspaper and paint. Ten to ring in the New year, they burn the demons to show they don't need the devil. There is a song here that goes like this: Goa, Goa, Goa is on fire! We don't need the devil cause the devil is a liar! I got interviewed/told what to say about our Dawali experience that night by the Goan News channel. All very surreal really!
- I visited a spice plantation with the other volunteers and visited temples that day too at a town called Ponda. On the way back, we stopped in Old Goa and saw the mummified body of St. Frances Xavier which was a little creepy but great.
- The volunteers and I took a boat trip one night along the river that locals frequent and it was a riot. There was a singing DJ on the top deck and a stage where all the local boys danced together. Quite a show! Then of course the "western" girls were invited up to dance. I got up there with a couple others in front of a couple hundred people and danced like a fool. One thing I have learned in India is not to care at all anymore what people think and its because of these types of experiences and other similar ones!
- I have been to the Anjuna Market quite often. It is one of the biggest markets in India where vendors form all over India and the world come to sell their jewelry, clothes, purses, etc. It is held every Wednesday and draws an eclectic crowd consisting of old, burnt out hippies (that you see all over Goa really) to burnt-to-a-crisp Brits that descend on Goa in hoards this time of year. It's a fascinating yet exhausting place to be.
- Health wise, I got pink eye from the kids at Asha Deep that wouldn't go away for about 2 weeks which was pretty miserable and was just diagnosed today by all the children picking through my hair that I have a nice case of head lice. Lovely... but have been doing alright otherwise!
- We have had a couple Child Labor Parades in a couple towns telling people not to give begging children money, but food and water instead and that they shouldn't be out on the streets rag-picking, etc. The kids loved marching in the parades and made banners and posters that were wonderful.
- Last but not least, I have taken a couple weekend trips. One was to Palolem in the southern most part of Goa. It was GREAT. So different from the touristy, dirty, raving norther beaches we all usually go to on weekends. Highly recommend it if you ever come to Goa:)
- This past weekend I took a 13 hour over night (miserable) to a town called Hampi, but I will get into that in the next blog which prob won't be till I am leaving India around the second week of December.

So, if I haven't mentioned before, India is the most (I can't think of a word for it) overwhelming country I have ever visited. Here is a little top ten list of things you need to know about if you ever visit India:
10. The men. They stare at white women like it's their job and try to take your photos on the beach... a lot. If you have your photo taken while on the beach, (you can try to prevent it by yelling at them, but it inevitably happens when you're no looking) you automatically become a porn star in central India, where they sell your photograph as porn. Who knew? Come to India, go to the beach, become a porn star... who would've thunk it? The men here are also very affectionate to each other in public, holding hands and walking with their hands on the shoulders' of their friends. Its not unusual to see a line four men deep walking down the street, each with their hands on each other's shoulders. Pretty comical at times.
9. The smells. The smell of raw sewage is pretty overwhelming at times due to streams of it running along sidewalks or anywhere else it can go. Fumes from the scooters and buses are killer on your eyes and throat. The fumes from burning trash aren't nice either. Cow poop is everywhere, which makes sense since so are the cows (they are the main case of traffic jams here) so always look where you step. Also, watch out for packs of wild dogs. They are not nice so always carry a stick or rocks with you if you are walking in rural areas- oh, and watch for that poop too.
8. The food. It is always either too spicy or too sweet. No happy medium and don't bother coming here if you don't like rice and curry! But if you do, learn how to eat it with your hands because that's how it is done here. It's quite an art form and I have gotten pretty good at it!
7. The poverty. Well, it's everywhere and supposedly Goa is nothing compared to the north. I will see for myself in less than two weeks. Never give money to the begging street kids. It just goes back to the alcoholic mothers and fathers. The mothers give their infants liquor to knock them out everyday so as to keep them quite. It's awful. be prepared to be hassled constantly, esp on the beach by hawkers and beggars as they see you as ATM machines.
6. The weather. It's hot as hell here.
5. The bargaining/shopping. You have to half the price of everything. If someone will take you in the taxi for 200 rupees, you always have to say 'no, 100' and if they don't give in, start walking away till they call you back.
4. The time. GMT= Goa Maybe Time. They do everything at their own pace and it can be frustrating at times to say the least! An hour and a half for dinner isn't unusual at all. Oh, and the infamous head wobble... It means yes, it means no, it means maybe so and it's contagious. After a month here, you start noticing yourself doing it all the time. It's perfect for the Indian culture really, because nothing seems to be urgent or make a whole lot of sense!
3. The driving. Just don't do it. They are crazy drivers and it is scary enough riding on a scooter, on a bus or in a taxi. Just walking down the street is dangerous. I have learned the types of honks. One high pitched one is a scooter. More than one is its right behind you and a low beep is a bus and you better just move out of the way, esp if there is more than one honk.
2. The wondering. Questioning why things are done a certain way here in India is a waste of time, because if it doesn't make sense to you, then makes perfect sense here:) It is remarkable how many times we have all said, "Wait... What?" And then we just laugh and say "That's India!" AND NUMBER ONE (Drum roll please.............................................)
1. Be flexible and be able to laugh about anything and everything that happens, otherwise, you will be missing out on a great experience. This blog might sound a little negative, but really India is an awesome country. It is just so completely different and like I said, it can be overwhelming. So my #1 piece of advice, just take a deep breath, keep your eyes and ears open (you can plug your nose if you want), just go with it and enjoy!!!
Till next time... much love,
Chrissy

A Day In The Life

Gosh, where do I start? India is the most fascinating place I have ever visited. There is so much going on around you at all times, you just have to keep your eyes open at all times (esp if you don't want to get hit by a bus or scooter!). The children I work with are some of the happiest kids I have ever seen. They sleep on straw mats on stone floors in small rooms, share everything including clothes and toothbrushes, many have lice and scabies, they come from awful backgrounds (two little brothers came recently that were found living in a drainage pipe, another little girl has a prosthetic leg because she was run over by a bus, another is brain damaged from her alcoholic father smashing a bottle over her head when she was little- the list goes on), but yet, they are very happy and incredibly loving with the volunteers. At one time when I was sitting on the floor, I counted 6 kids sitting in my lap, on my legs and some with arms wrapped around my neck. I know already it is going to be very difficult to leave.
So, I just finished my second week here at El Shaddai and here is a day in the life:
- Wake up around 6:15, get ready, and have my nescafe coffee:(
- Walk over to the House of Kathleen (50-60 children ages 1.5 tp 7) and help get them ready for school. This involves combing their hair, tucking in the boy's shirts, zipping up the girl's uniforms, helping them find their shoes and of course playing patty cake (I made the mistake of teaching them that song "I'm bringing home a baby bumble bee, won't my mommy be so proud of me," and they can not get enough! Oh, and also duck, Duck, Goose:).
- After everyone is sorted out, myself and the 4 other volunteers walk with the kids to school which is about 30 minutes down the road. We are in a very rural part of Goa.
- Soon after arriving, the girls from Rainbow House (50-60 ages 8-17) get there as do two of the boys homes where the boys are 8-17. I have gotten to know many of the children and some of the little boys bring me flowers in the morning that they have picked along the way.
- At 8:50 am all the children are assembled in the front of the school where they sing a song about God as a group, say a few prayers and then the national anthem.
- At 9:00am, I get my first set of girls I work with, Dilshad and Priyanshi, both about 12 or 13, from Rainbow House. I teach math the first hour (fractions and all that fun stuff) and then the second hour it's either English or science.
- At 11:00 we have a 15 minute "break" which involves playing tag with the boys on the playground, which is pointless really because I get out within the first minute of the game, but they seem to like it.
- At 11:15, I get the second set, Geeta and Pinky, who are the same age as the others, are taught the same subjects and are also from Rainbow House. They are very sweet and try so hard to do well.
- 1pm is lunch which is a tiffin filled with rice. A tiffin is a tin container that we bring to Kathleen House each morning and have the cook put some sort of rice variation in there for lunch each day. The kids all get one too. I am beginning to get better at eating with my hands (the first couple days were painstaking) since that is the way it is done here. The stickier the rice though, the better!
- After 1:30, we all walk down the road to an old Portuguese schoolhouse that is now used as a makeshift theatre. There is a group of 5 Italians from a well-knowed theater group in Italy who have come to work with our children on a show to raise $ and awareness. The children will put on the performance at the end of October. Different age groups have learned different things. For instance, the older boys have learned to walk on stilts the Italians made. I have spent so many grueling hours strapping in their legs into these wooden stilts and they holding their arms as they practice. It is exhausting, but I can honestly say the smiles on their faces make it all worth it, especially when the one you were teaching starts to walk on his own without holding on to you. Other groups, like the younger kids, are learning to juggle balls and colored scarves, do clown shows and acrobatics. I can't wait for the show!!
- When we finish at 5pm, we're spent. We go back to one of the children's homes (they are across the street from where we stay) and refill our water bottles. Having clean drinking water is a major issue here. The house we are staying in doesn't have any so we either have to walk to the town of Mapsa which is a good 45 minute walk or we can fill up at one of the houses, but that involves staying awhile with the kids because you can never come and go unseen:)
- So, after a shower to scrub the sweat and horrible red clay dirt/dust that stain everything from your feet to your clothes, Emily, Allison (volunteers in my house. Emily is English and my roommate) and I veg out and read on the balcony for awhile.
- Around 5:30/6pm, we go back over to one of the two houses, play with the kids until dinner which is around 6:30. Dinner is always (surprise, surprise) rice! Sometimes when we feel riced-out, we walk to Mapsa to get dinner.
- Then it's early to bed- I will admit to being in bed by 8pm some nights because you are just that tired from the heat and everything else.

One weekends, we get a rickshaw or taxi to Baga beach which is one of the biggest tourist destinations in Goa, esp for Brits. So that's my life at the present time:)

Here are a couple cautions for you in case you ever visit India:
- Stray dogs. They are everywhere, they are diseased and they are mean. One volunteer, Michelle from Australia and one of the Italians have been bitten and had to go for rabies shots.
- Cows. Holy cow, they are everywhere and it seems that they prefer the middle of the street. Since Hindus believe cows are holy, you have to just drive between or around the herds laying or standing in the middle of the roads. It's insane. I am convinced there has to be an Indian video game where you have to weave through these herds of huge cows and a few stray dogs to win points.
- Scooters, rickshaws and buses. As you walk along the street and you hear a loud honk behind you, stay as close to the side as you can because otherwise you'll be nailed. In fact, just hug the side at all times. India must have the best drivers in the world because they drive like maniacs but I haven't seen one accident yet.
- Being a white female. Unfortunately, Indian men are under the distinct impression that if you are a white female, then they are definitely going to get lucky- no question. It's actually quite comical.

I will say this though, India is cheap, cheap, cheap and I'm lovin it. It's about 45 rupee to the dollar. I usually spent no more than $2 on a proper dinner and that is not skimping. A bread man rides by the house on his bike early every morning and you can buy a roll for 2 rupees which is nothing. A rickshaw ride for 30 minutes is about $3. Although if you get the driver I had the other night that did the "rickshaw world dance" that involves swing the wheel back and forth and laughing hysterically, then it might be a better idea to go for the taxi which is only a buck more. I was in the Mapsa market the other day and bought 3 tomatoes, a cucumber, an onion and 2 green peppers for 35 cents. Mom, you'd be proud:)

Ok, so in the upcoming weeks here are a couple other things I think I will be involved with:
- Working at a night shelter on Fridays that I visited awhile back in Panjim, the capital of Goa.
- Working at the world famous Ajuna flea market on Wednesdays where El Shaddai has a stand where they sell purses and cards the girls have made to raise money.
- During the afternoon in the Mapsa market there are many street children that sell plastic bags for the fish and then give the rupees to their alcoholic fathers so they can waste it on booze. There is a program called Manna that is meals-on-wheels for these unfortunate children. I went last week and it was a very depressing and great experience. The children are filthy and covered in lice, scabies and fish scales (from the bags they sell) but they were all over me trying to hold my hand and play hand games. They taught me their secret handshake:) Then when the time came, I helped hand out the rice to the 60-70 kids that were there. I was told by the man in charge that the numbers will increase in the coming weeks to 120-130 since monsoon is over and now the tourists come. It's hard to imagine. I went down to the market today and spotted a couple of the kids. I waited to see if they would see me and within minutes, I was surrounded by them calling my name which they remembered. The locals look at them as a nuisance though and are treated badly. But anyways, I will be seeing a lot more of them in the coming weeks and at the night shelters.
Another aspect will be going into the slums with trained field worked with El Shaddai to try to get children to come to one of the homes. And lastly, I think I might be doing some counseling with the older girls at Rainbow House as many of them have been sexually abused. The woman Julia that runs the home talked with me about my Psych degree and asked if I would like to talk with some of the girls so we'll see.

I think that about sums it up for now. I will try to get the list of what the homes need for those of you who emailed me about sending things to the kids. Once I get that, I will send it out with the address.
Hope you all are well~

Goa, India

I arrived in Goa today and it truely is like what you see on the Discovery Channel or in National Geographic. I hopped on the back of a scooter to come to this internet cafe and it is like playing chicken constantly on the road- you beep to let the buses (and million other scooters you are pracically touching) know you are right next to them. Traffic circles? Forget it. I just closed my eyes... In the center of Mhapsa, lining block after block are hundreds of parked scooters and people everywhere. There are men sitting around with these massive piles of bright orange marigold flowers that they are stringing into long chains to sell (like in monsoon wedding) and there is so much to see on every corner/square inch, it is almost overwhelming. Goa is lush because monsoon season is coming to an end and forests of palm trees everywhere. Goa is divided into (I think) four regions and I am staying in a part of Goa called Mhapsa. The closest beach is probably 20-30 minute car ride. I met one other volunteer- Allison from England and two more come Monday. The place we are staying is the top floor (2 bedrooms/baths) of a house (a really nice, super devote catholic family lives below/with us). The house is located directly across the street from The Kathleen House (the children's home ages 1.5-6) and Rainbow House where the girls (7-?) live. The boys homes are up a hill and I will see and meet all the children on Monday. I can't wait. There are monkeys outside my bedroom window that run when I whistle at them:)
Anyways, it doesn't look like I will be emailing that often in the next 2 months because of the fact that I have to ride into town each time to use it, but I will do my best.
Smooches!

Hakuna Matata

Hello again!
Sarfari in Kruger National Park in South Africa was amazing. My group consisted of an English mom, her daughter, two aussie girls, one of which I might stay with when I get there in March, a Japanese man named Bob from Idaho... I know. Strange. Anyways, the guide was the toughest "woman" I have ever met. She fought in the South African army, was a body guard for Bush on a visit here, killed a guy, you name it- she did it. We saw about every animal except the leopard and lions we saw from far away. We camped two nights and stayed at a "cultural" village which catered to tourists and I didn't like it- other than playing soccer with the local kids and watching them perform their tribal dances- that was nice. I had two up-close and personal encounters with Africa's finest insects- Once, when I woke up in my tent in the middle of the night to the sound of scratching only to find a really large, hairy spider above me and then again in the car when a dung beetle flew in the front window, richocheted off my head and hit the back window. Good times:)

After the safari, I went back to Pretoria outside of Jo'burg and went on a small tour to the apartheid museum in Jo'burg. It was really interesting and to see what actually happened here- how much violence there was, explained a lot and I am really glad I went. After the museum, I went into Soweto, where everything happened and even into Kliptown. Won't get into where that is or my dad will have my head. I saw Winnie Mendela's house, Desmond Tutu's too. Winnie did some pretty atrocious things during the uprisings including supporting the "necklace". This is when you took a person, put a huge tire full of petrol inside it and light you on fire as an example to informers. There is also the largest hospital in the world in Jo'burg but you don't want to have your baby there for one good reason: people steal them for two reasons: using them for voodoo medical and raping a virgin is thought to cure AIDS by many people here...
A couple more fun facts about Johannesburg:
- You can get an AK47 for 200 Rand- that's under $30.
- You can ask a taxi driver for one and you will have one within 20 minutes.
- Locals stand on the side of the road using various hands signals to bus (they cram up to 15 people in these meant for 8) driver to tell them where they want to go. Pretending you're hand is a gun means you want to go to Jo'burg.
- A policeman in England only pulls his gun with the distinct intend on shooting someone once in 6 years, in NYC once in 6 months, in Jo'burg once in 6 days...
I could go on and on about stories and things that I've learned, but I would be here all day.

Ok, so now I am staring out at the whitest sand and the clearest green water I have ever seen in Zanzibar Island, Tanzania, in the north (Nungi and Kendwa). I'm met more Brits and loads of French that I have been spending time with. There are also tons of volunteers here on a weeks vacation from Kenya or Tanzania. Last night a group of us went night fishing. The rods we used were nothing bigger then a foot and it had string around it with the weight and hook at the end. Unfortunately, no once caught a damn thing, but being on that boat and looking at the stars, which btw are INCREDIBLE in Africa, was really nice.
The poverty in Zanzibar was a definitely culture shock and I am glad I was exposed to it before I leave for India in a couple days- ease my way in. If I had to guess, I would say the island is 90% Muslim and Ramadan started the day I got here. I was fascinating driving by these shacks and huts made of mud and thatch at dusk and seeing large family's sitting on the floor in front of their homes eating together. The people of Zanzibar are very friendly and are constantly saying "jambo" which means hello or "hakuna matata" which I think if you've seen the lion King, you know what that means.

If I ever want to get to the beach, I better go try to download pictures and stop writing.

The Garden Route

Let's see... where did I leave off? The wine tour I took was well worth it- had a great time and tried lots of South African vino. The next day, I ended up catching a ride to the Cape of Good Hope with a really great Israeli couple, Maya and Lior, who had rented a car and were traveling through Africa on their honeymoon. On the way, we passed by an ostrich farm and got out of the car to harass the big birds. If you make a fist and move it close to their faces, they try to nip at you but they've got no teeth and so it doesn't really hurt. We also stopped at Boler Beach where penguins abound. Along the way, we saw whales, although a good picture was hard to take. Then, we arrived at Cape Point and view from the top was amazing. Along the beach, there were rock hyraxes, which look like groundhogs (sort of) but believe it or not, they are the closest relative to the elephant. There were also ostriches grazing on the the dunes- pretty cool.

The next morning, I left for Wilderness. It's a tiny place with nothing but hiking to do, but the hostel had the best view of the beach. I went for a hike to a place called "The Map of Africa" and on the way, I passed by a Township where some of the children come out to the road to wave and say hello. The actual 'Map of Africa' is basicly when you look out into this valley, from your vantage point, you look down on this large peice of land that is carved out by a river and it's just like looking at the continent of Africa (standing on the southernmost tip looking north).

I left the next day for Knysna where I ran into Ally (Scottish), Helen (German) and Nicki (British) who I had met on the Baz Bus (the main transport for backpackers although so many people rent cars and offer rides that I wish I never bought the ticket among other reasons such as crappy service- but I digress!). I also met two British guys named Tom and Mark who convinced me that I should leep off the biggest bridge in Africa, from the highest bungee jump in the world, Bloukrans. It's amazing what a couple beers can make that sound like a good idea. So the next morning I set off with them and did the stupidest/bravest thing I think I have ever done. One of the hardest parts was walking to the center of the bridge where you actually jump from. You walk under the bridge on a narrow, metal grate bridge and if you look down, you can see all the way down. Needless to say, I never looked down and walked at a snails pace the whole way. I was fourth to jump and the waiting was HORRIBLE. Especially as you watch the otherthree jump before you. So, it was finally my turn and I did what any rational person would do- I prayed harder then I ever have and jumped. The height of the jump is 216 meters and you freefall for 4-5 seconds. The first couple seconds are a bit of a blur, but as you recoil and fall again, you are free falling for another 3-4 seconds (the second recoil is the second highest bungee distance in the world). Anyways, it was actually amazing once you realized you are still alive and I'm glad I did it, although I don't think I will be doing it again!

After the bungee experience, I went with Mark and Tom and a British couple, who had also jumped, to Jeffery's Bay- a really popular surfers beach where there are waves called super tubes where international surfing competitions are held annually. The hostel we stayed at was in the beach and was very laid back. The next night, Ally, Nicki and Helen showed up and that was a lot of fun being with the girls. I left J Bay and am now outside of Jo'burg in a town called Pretoria. Tomorrow morning, I get picked up by Bundu Safari company to do my 4 day safari. I can't wait! When I get back here on the 22nd, I leave the next morning for Zanzibar in Tanzania fir 5 days and then I am off to India.

South Africa has been a great experince and I wish I had more time here. There is so much to see, experience and learn about (including the jargon and understanding the acsents!). The history and baggage that comes with the country makes it all the more interesting.

Here's some south african vocab for you:
When something goes wrong you say- shame!
Instead of saying "you're welcome" it's: pleasure (plez-shaw)
Hey man= Hey bru' (brew)
BBQ- Braii (bray)

Ok, till next time!

Cape Town continued...

Well, I am still in beautiful Cape Town and have had some great experiences thus far (and one not so nice-> keep reading). The weather is truely bizarre here. One minute it will be warm and the next, the wind will start whipping and it will turn cold in a matter of seconds. Sometimes there are warm winds called "bergs" that are really nice. The wine tour was amazing- gorgeous countryside and I learned (drank) a lot about South African wine. I have met a lot of really cool people from everywhere, but particularly a few from Denmark, Holland, Australia and the States. One of them acutually had a friend here in CT that was having a BBQ, or a "bray" as they call it and we all went to that. I have befriended the staff here at the hostel- great people. So for the most part, the people I have met have been great. Unfortunatly though, I did have first-hand experience with "reverse" racism. It wasn't a huge deal, but it wasn't pleasant, just a lot of name calling for no particular reason. It defiantly opened my eyes to how divided South Africa still is and how much anamosity still exists due to the color of your skin. But, never fear! I didn't let that dampen my spirits and the next day I climbed table Mountain with a group of people from the hostel. It was an intense hike but the view from the top was unbelievable. We all thought the top would be as flat as it looked from the ground, but in fact, it was awesome- really rugged with boulders, spotted with pools of water and really interesting vegetation.

Yesterday, I met up with Ingrid, who lives in Cape Town. I walked part of the Camino in Spain with her and have been keeping in touch over the years. She with took me on a tour by car around the Cape region. The roads go right along the cliffs and look down on the bays and it is just stunning. Her husband spotted a few Southern Right whales down below so we pulled over to get a better look. There were tons of them! It's mating season and you could see them swimming circularly around each other and then coming up for air. Today I went to the largest flea market around and there were lots of performers, including small children performing traditional dances. Tomorrow, I head to the Cape of Good Hope and then Tuesday I leave Cape Town for Wilderness which is on the Garden Route.
More later!
Cheers!

Cape Town

So, after a grueling 19/20 hours through Senegal and Johannesberg, I fianlly made my final destination in Cape Town. On the flight to Jo'burg, I sat next to a guy named Collin from Michigan State. He is doing pro-bono law stuff here for reguees and as it turns out, we are staying at the same hostel. When our driver got us at the airport, he showed us the Township, which is basicly the largest shantytown I have ever seen... We are talking 10-15 km of tin/plastic/whateveryoucanfindtobiuldahouse shantytowns- no running water and 6-8 people living in a shack. It's quite an eye-opening experience just to see it. He said that the SA Gov is trying to quickly turn the Township into flats and apartments because the Olympics are supposedly coming to Cape Town in 2010; It's pretty messed up that that is why they are changing things... Crime is out of control in some parts and the worse crimes are done to children which I won't even get into. Cape Town itself is beautiful, at least what I have seen today. Table Mountain looms above the city centre and it is incredible. The pepole at the hostel are great and tomorrow, I go on a wine tour to Stenallbosch, which is in the wine country- comparable to Napa from what I hear. I will hopefully have pictures for you in a day or two.
Ok, I have been awake for I can't even tell you for how long- TOO LONG. So I'm going to bed. More stories to come when I am coherent.

My Going Away Party

Last night, many close friends came out to Sette Bello and RiRa in Clarendon for one last night of debauchery before I leave on the 5th of September. I had a fantastic time and want to thank everyone for coming! I have been truly blessed with wonderful friends and family. Also, a big thanks to all those who pitched in for the amazingly generous gift of an Ipod for my travels- totally unnecessary but very appreciated. Thanks again for a fantastic night and I will miss you all very much when I'm gone!!!

How Ironic

The one aspect of my trip that I did not think would be a problem, getting a visa for India, has turned disastrous. I made the mistake of telling the people at the Indian consulate that I would be volunteering while I am there. What a HUGE mistake!
The woman behind the counter said "India does not take volunteers"... I know, I couldn't believe she was saying this either- especially as I was staring at a life-size mural on the consulate wall of Mother Teresa who, by the way, is originally from Macedonia!! I am not sure why I have been given such a hard time (will spare you the details) but I am definitely beginning to see this is an issue of national pride for them and also the woman I always have to deal with clearly doesn't like me either for whatever reason. So, if my third visit to the consulate fails on Tuesday, it doesn't look like I will be stopping in India. What a shame!

My "Round the World" Trip

I will be updating this blog as I take my trip around the world, starting a month from today, so stay tuned! Cheers!